Turk Burner Flame Temperature
I finally got around to getting a cheap Harbor Freight digital thermometer with a K Thermocouple probe, and measuring the flame temperature of my very simple, not-optimised Turk Burner. The temperature inside the flame hit 2000F before the thermometer maxed out. Strangely, on the Celcius setting, it went higher, to 1150C, where it fluctuated back and forth a few degrees like I’d expect. I don’t know that I trust a HF thermometer, but it’s relatively accurate at lower temps. No, I can’t use an IR thermometer, the cheap ones max out at about 1000F.
This is pretty good news as the temperature is an indication of how complete the combustion is, and it’s been a big subject of speculation in the biodiesel world for a while. If the vegoil/glycerine/whatever didn’t burn close to completely, there are questions about what pollutants the unit would emit.
I was really hoping that the Turk reached at least 1500F. 2000 is much better.
I’d been working for a few hours already and got so excited that I messaged a bunch of nerdy people the news about the flame temp. Then I realized that it was only 7:30 am in California and that I’d probably woken several people up. Oops.
I was burning washed/dried biodiesel. I also did a batch of FFA/biodiesel mixture from acidulating glycerine, and it hit more or less the same temperatures, assuming I trust my thermometer. The difference is that the washed biodiesel left no ash, which is to be expected, whereas the FFA/biodiesel mix left almost as much ash as I get when I burn unwashed biodiesel. I was actually doing this experiment just to look at ash production- to see if the salts from acidulation stayed in the FFA/biodiesel layer or if they sank to the glycerine/water/water-soluble contaminants layer. I had used HCl to acidulate the glycerine’s soaps, which produces non-precipitating salts in this case. I’m sure that if I used sulfuric acid, which is DANGEROUS to use by the way (boiling acid/glycerine results when you first add it), it would have had fewer salts in the oily layer, as it forms a large ‘cottage cheese’ looking layer of insoluble salts.
The fact that it hits 2000F means a few interesting things:
-that should be a high enough combustion temperature to stop worrying about acrolein emissions. While acrolein isn’t the only pollutant created by combustion, it’s one that gets brought up over and over again as a concern with vegetable oil burning or glycerine burning.
-you can’t of course actually capture all 2000F worth of energy with a heat exchanger as that was just the flame temperature itself, but the air temperature right above the flame was “only” 800C, which is plenty.
-flame color is caused by something other than incomplete combustion. The Turk makes a really bright flame on some fuels (like you need cutting goggles to look at it, which you’d never know by looking at photos of Turk Burners on the Internet, as they all look yellow due to bad photography of bright objects), and a yellower flame on others (however, it doesn’t smoke or smell during the ‘good’ part of the burn cycle, till the levels drop too low and it starts to smolder at the very end of use). I was wondering if the yellow flame was due to poor combustion or due to other colorants in the container I was using, the fuels I’m using, or something else.
-I need a smaller Turk Burner so that I can actually use reasonable heat exchanger that can keep up with the heat. Mine consumes about 1.25 gallons of biodiesel an hour. I’d be wasting most of the BTU’s if I couldn’t get a better heat exchanger.
Photos from last summer (2007) experiments with Turk Burner fuels: